How to Make Curtains: The 5-Step Sewing Tutorial

How much fabric do you need?

The fabric length depends on two calculations: the width, which factors in the fullness ratio, and the height, which factors in the hems. It is best to allow 50 cm of extra fabric for cutting mistakes and pattern matching.

Fabric width is calculated as follows: rod width x fullness ratio + 8 cm (side folds). Fabric height: desired height (from rod to floor) + 4 cm for the top hem + 10 to 15 cm for the bottom hem, plus the pattern-match allowance if the fabric has a pattern.

A concrete example: for a 200 cm rod, a height of 250 cm and an eyelet heading (ratio 2), you need a fabric width of 408 cm (200 x 2 + 8) and a height of 269 cm (250 + 4 + 15). Depending on the fabric width (often 140 cm), that means 3 panels to join. To measure precisely before cutting, follow the Kurtens sizing guide.

Which fullness ratio for each heading?

The fullness ratio determines the volume of the gathers: it is the ratio between the fabric width and the rod width. The higher it is, the denser the folds. It varies depending on the type of heading.

For a sheer, go up to 2.5 for an airy look. For details on headings and how they hang, see the Kurtens hanging guide.

Sewing a curtain step by step

Making a curtain takes five steps and only requires straight stitches. A basic sewing machine is enough.

1. Wash and iron the fabric. Wash the fabric before sewing so it shrinks now, not later. Iron it so you can cut straight.
2. Cut to the calculated dimensions. Mark out the fabric width and height (with margins), chalk the lines and cut. Join the panels with a straight stitch if needed, matching the pattern.
3. Sew the side hems. Make a 2 cm double fold on each side, press the fold, then sew with a straight stitch for a clean edge that will not fray.
4. Sew the bottom hem. Fold up 10 to 15 cm doubled over, press, then sew. This wide hem weighs down the bottom and ensures a straight drape.
5. Add the heading. Heading tape sewn at the top then gathers adjusted, eyelet tape iron-on or sewn then eyelets fitted, or a simple channel for a rod pocket.

Tip: press every fold before sewing. That is the step that separates a clean curtain from a wavy one.

Which fabric and weight for a beautiful drape?

A curtain's drape depends above all on the weight of the fabric. The denser a fabric, the straighter it hangs and the more light it blocks. The benchmark thresholds: a light sheer fabric weighs less than 150 g/m², a standard heavy curtain 150 to 300 g/m², a blackout or light-filtering fabric 300 to 500 g/m², and a high-performance technical fabric exceeds 500 g/m².

For a curtain that is both decorative and insulating, aim for at least 300 g/m². Below that, the curtain flies up, lets light through and insulates little. For comparison, the fabric of Kurtens curtains weighs 620 g/m², which ensures a heavy, straight drape, 100% blackout*, up to 7°C of thermal gain* and 22 dB of attenuation*. This level of density is hard to sew yourself, because thick fabric needs the right machine.

*Data from tests in optimal conditions.

Sew it yourself or choose ready-to-hang made-to-measure?

Sewing your own curtains costs the price of the fabric and supplies, plus a few hours of work. It is satisfying and economical on simple fabrics. The limit shows up on heavy technical fabrics and demanding finishes (even eyelets, pinch pleats), where amateur results are visible.

The no-sew alternative is the ready-to-hang made-to-measure curtain. You give your exact dimensions, the curtain arrives finished, hemmed, with the heading you chose, ready to hang. Discover the Kurtens made-to-measure curtains, delivered to the exact centimetre with no sewing on your part.

Frequently asked questions

Whether you sew it yourself or not, a successful curtain starts with measuring and is well weighted at the bottom. For a finished result with no sewing, go for ready-to-hang made-to-measure, delivered to the exact centimetre.